Today we made of first of what will be many trips to the Connemara region, about one hour northwest of Galway City in County Galway.
We drove the N59 highway, which runs from Galway to Clifden, the capital of Connemara on the coast. Our day-trip highlights included:
- Aughnanure Castle, located just south of the village of Oughterard, was built in the 15th century by the one time powerful ruling clan, the O'Flahertys. It lies in picturesque surroundings close to the shores of Lough Corrib. Standing on what is virtually a rocky island, the castle is a particularly well-preserved example of an Irish tower house.
- Twelve Bens, known as Na Beanna Beola in Gaelic, is a well-known mountain range in Connemara National Park. The park covers nearly 5,000 acres of countryside. Uber-dedicated athletes can hike all twelve in a single day. We just drove through the range this time.
- Kylemore Abbey, today the Monastic home of the Benedictine Order of Nuns in Ireland, was originally called Kylemore Castle. It was built between 1863 and 1868 as a private home for the family of Mitchell Henry, a wealthy politician from Manchester, England. Henry sold the property after sudden deaths of both his wife and daughter. The abbey was founded here when Benedictine Nuns fled Belgium in World War I. Today it's a girl's school, pottery, restaurant and craft shop. It's also known for its amazing glass-housed gardens.
http://www.kylemoreabbey.com/
- Town of Clifden and the John D'Arcy monument, dedicated to the village's founder. The monument overlooks the town to the west and is well worth a visit for the beautiful views of the town and its two church spires. There is a road near the monument called Sky Road, which winds up and over a hill, opening to sweeping views of the bay and ocean. We stopped here for a few pictures before stumbling across some castle ruins we had to canvas the backroads to reach.
http://www.connemara.net/history/part1.php
- Clifden Castle was built by John D'Arcy (1785-1839) in a Gothic Revival style in the early 19th century. It's visible from Sky Road, but only a couple tiny country roads lead close to it; then walking through pastures past cows and horses is the only way to reach it. Very cool.
Showing posts with label Galway. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Galway. Show all posts
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Discovering Galway - week one
During the house-hunting frenzy, we were able to find some time on Thursday and Friday to see the sites and explore most of Galway. We been lucky and had beautiful weather the entire first week - no rain, partly cloudy skies, sea breezes, 70 degrees.
On Thursday afternoon, Damon took me down to the docks where the Corrib River, which runs through the city, meets the sea at Ballyknow Quay. This is where Damon took the beautiful pictures of the swans back in September 2004, the first time he visited Galway for work. The swans were still there with hundreds of seagulls and pigeons and a few ducks. We watched parents and children feed the swans and pigeons pieces of bread, took some pictures and walked along the beginning of the promenade, which starts in a green-meadowed park (South Park/Claddagh) along the sea by city centre. There are walking and bike paths along the "prom," as the locals call it.
We also enjoyed a few meals down in city centre since arriving in Galway - one at Gemelle's on Quay Street, where Damon had a delicious pork dish with sauteed mushrooms and mashed potatoes and I had a lemon-parmesan risotto with vegetables - and another at Mustard, just off Quay Street, a place known for its gourmet pizzas. We had a pizza with serrano ham, rocket (that's what they call lettuce here), local goat cheese, roasted peppers and herbs. It was quite good, and we'll definitely go back. We also had a nice meal at The Thai Garden, recommended to us as the best Thai restaurant in Galway, located right on the docks. The portions were very large and responsibly priced (around 16 Euro for an entree with rice). We'll definitely go back there too.
On Friday morning, we walked from city centre all the way down the prom to Salthill, our new neighborhood, which took about 30 minutes. We checked out the gym, Leisureland http://www.leisureland.ie/, and then looked into several of the shops in Salthill. We made friends with the owner of our local wine shop, who tasted us on a Cotes du Rhone and only carries wines from Italy, France and Spain - and only from tiny producers. We stopped at Da Roberto's, an Italian restaurant recommended to us by our agent. We had two salads and shared a pizza with pepperonis, mushrooms and peppers - the tomatoes on the salad weren't too favorful, but we are spoiled in California - but we'd definitely come back. The pizza price of 13 Euro was reasonable, and the restaurant is maybe a half-mile from our apartment. There were pictures on the walls of Lucca, the walled village in western Tuscany we visited two years ago on our honeymoon. Our waitress was Australian - the third Aussie waitress we've had - she was very sweet and next time we'll find out what the Lucca connection is; perhaps the owners are from Lucca? And I also need to find out what the connection is between Australia and Ireland - is it just that Aussies come here during their winter due to their countries past ties with the U.K.?
On Saturday we were going to go the Aran Islands http://www.arandirect.com/, off the coast of Galway - but we made the decision too late and missed the first ferry. It was a glorious day - sunny skies - perfect for a visit to the islands. It is supposed to rain on Sunday, so we may have missed our opportunity to visit the Arans for another week or so. I hope the weather holds. Instead we visited the big farmers' market down by St. Nicholas's Cathedral near city centre. My observations at the market:
- The broccoli florets are smaller than those in the U.S.
- The cauliflower are about the same size
- Carrots here are much bigger
- Cherry tomatoes have the best flavor here (the big tomatoes are bland)
- The strawberries are smaller
- The cheese selections are amazing!
- The oysters are bigger here (sadly, I like the small ones)
- Hummus is big here (many types sold at the farmers' market)
- Pestos are big here (many types sold at the farmers' market!)
My next adventure will be to the grocery store next week. Should be fun.
On Thursday afternoon, Damon took me down to the docks where the Corrib River, which runs through the city, meets the sea at Ballyknow Quay. This is where Damon took the beautiful pictures of the swans back in September 2004, the first time he visited Galway for work. The swans were still there with hundreds of seagulls and pigeons and a few ducks. We watched parents and children feed the swans and pigeons pieces of bread, took some pictures and walked along the beginning of the promenade, which starts in a green-meadowed park (South Park/Claddagh) along the sea by city centre. There are walking and bike paths along the "prom," as the locals call it.
We also enjoyed a few meals down in city centre since arriving in Galway - one at Gemelle's on Quay Street, where Damon had a delicious pork dish with sauteed mushrooms and mashed potatoes and I had a lemon-parmesan risotto with vegetables - and another at Mustard, just off Quay Street, a place known for its gourmet pizzas. We had a pizza with serrano ham, rocket (that's what they call lettuce here), local goat cheese, roasted peppers and herbs. It was quite good, and we'll definitely go back. We also had a nice meal at The Thai Garden, recommended to us as the best Thai restaurant in Galway, located right on the docks. The portions were very large and responsibly priced (around 16 Euro for an entree with rice). We'll definitely go back there too.
On Friday morning, we walked from city centre all the way down the prom to Salthill, our new neighborhood, which took about 30 minutes. We checked out the gym, Leisureland http://www.leisureland.ie/, and then looked into several of the shops in Salthill. We made friends with the owner of our local wine shop, who tasted us on a Cotes du Rhone and only carries wines from Italy, France and Spain - and only from tiny producers. We stopped at Da Roberto's, an Italian restaurant recommended to us by our agent. We had two salads and shared a pizza with pepperonis, mushrooms and peppers - the tomatoes on the salad weren't too favorful, but we are spoiled in California - but we'd definitely come back. The pizza price of 13 Euro was reasonable, and the restaurant is maybe a half-mile from our apartment. There were pictures on the walls of Lucca, the walled village in western Tuscany we visited two years ago on our honeymoon. Our waitress was Australian - the third Aussie waitress we've had - she was very sweet and next time we'll find out what the Lucca connection is; perhaps the owners are from Lucca? And I also need to find out what the connection is between Australia and Ireland - is it just that Aussies come here during their winter due to their countries past ties with the U.K.?
On Saturday we were going to go the Aran Islands http://www.arandirect.com/, off the coast of Galway - but we made the decision too late and missed the first ferry. It was a glorious day - sunny skies - perfect for a visit to the islands. It is supposed to rain on Sunday, so we may have missed our opportunity to visit the Arans for another week or so. I hope the weather holds. Instead we visited the big farmers' market down by St. Nicholas's Cathedral near city centre. My observations at the market:
- The broccoli florets are smaller than those in the U.S.
- The cauliflower are about the same size
- Carrots here are much bigger
- Cherry tomatoes have the best flavor here (the big tomatoes are bland)
- The strawberries are smaller
- The cheese selections are amazing!
- The oysters are bigger here (sadly, I like the small ones)
- Hummus is big here (many types sold at the farmers' market)
- Pestos are big here (many types sold at the farmers' market!)
My next adventure will be to the grocery store next week. Should be fun.
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
Finding an apartment in Galway
Another eye-opening experience - trying to find an apartment in this happening city. There are about 80,000 people living in Galway, I'm told, so it's roughly the size of the town of Napa. There are a lot of U.S. companies that have set up manufacturing sites here, plus a bustling university, so lots of new residents coming and going. Here's some more background information about Galway: http://www.travelireland.org/galway/.
The housing market here is hot, unlike Northern California. Our leasing/relocation agent, Rosarie, arrived around 10 a.m. on Tuesday, September 11, to meet us at the hotel. She said she was thrilled to have four different apartments to show us, one of which was a townhouse. All had two bedrooms, and two bathrooms. (That news made our day already.) We had a cup of tea (we are adjusting well to their traditions) and then hopped into Rosarie's car (I almost got in on the wrong side, as the driver sits on the right here). Our first stop was in Salthill, about 1 mile south of Galway city centre. http://www.travelireland.org/galway/salthill/index.html
This apartment, located in the Baily Point complex, was remodeled in a contemporary, sleek modern style - and had a large terrace with sea views of Galway Bay. Stunning! And Ireland's longest promenade along the seashore was right across the street. Plus there is a little shopping area down the street in Salthill with pubs, wine shops, restaurants, internet cafes, grocery stores, etc. The apartment was a little small, but very nice. It totally exceeded our expectations. We were expecting tiny apartments in charming, ancient buildings with no dishwasher and old decor. We were thrilled.
Next we visited the townhouse; it was in a gated area on Taylor's Hill, a very affluent neighborhood, we were told. It was three stories with a spacious kitchen combined with separate living room and dining room on the first floor, two bedrooms, two baths on the second, and a loft upstairs for an office. The interior design was impressive. Very modern, contemporary and high-end. From a design standpoint, it was nicer than any place either of us had ever lived. But there were no seaviews or a terrace - it was less than a 10-minute walk down to the water, though. And a really nice gym was around the corner, just 3 minutes' walk away.
We then visited two apartments near city centre. The first was on the docks, right off the water - but it needed serious updating - kitchen, carpets, furniture, etc. We passed. The next was nicely decorated, fully remodeled with sleek modern furnishings and kitchen appliances - but no dishwasher. And it overlooked an oil refinery. We decided the city centre would be a little too noisy. And there were three showings of this sleek apartment scheduled that day, so it would be gone within hours. We let it go.
Over lunch on Quay Street (pronounced "key," the made hub of shopping, dining, activities here in Galway), we decided to make an offer on the townhouse. It was so nice and spacious, and only a short walk to the water. And it was a little closer to city centre. (We are keeping in mind that we only have one car, and I'll have to walk, bike or bus everywhere when Damon's at work.) We soon learned that there were several people interested in the Taylor's Hill townhouse, and the agent and owners are very fussy regarding to whom they rent. Their agent told our agent she would be meeting with the owners on Wednesday to select the tenant. We grew anxious (me more so than Damon, of course). Could we have been nicer during the showing? Should we have dressed more professionally? Should we send over a bottle of wine and a thank you note? (That's Lisa thinking....) Should we wait it out? Will we lose Baily Point if we do? It was already past 5 p.m., so all we could do was hurry up and wait.
The next morning, we decided to go walking around town. Finally, at 12 p.m. on Wednesday, we learned that we didn't get Taylor's Hill. Could this be because we are Americans? Our first sign of discrimination, thanks to our lovely foreign policy and a president that is detested worldwide? Who knows. Our agent was never able to find out why. She said she'd start searching the databases again to see if anything new turned up. She said she called Baily Point to make the offer, but had not heard back from the agent. With no calls as of Wednesday evening, we realized that we'd probably lost Baily Point too, and now there was nothing available. Would we be living at the Radisson for the next few months? We had been enjoying the outdoor jacuzzi, work-out room and sauna, but eating out every meal was getting old. It's a strange feeling to know that you are now a resident here, but you still feel like you're on vacation - or will this change when we move into an apartment and start a normal routine? Maybe I will always feel this way, as I still can't believe we are living in Europe.
On Thursday morning, our agent called and said she had two more apartments - neither had been listed yet - which we could see before the feeding-frenzy of potential renters occurred. The first was in the same building overlooking the oil refinery (Damon was not enthused, but it did have an dishwasher). The second was near Baily Point. On the way to the first apartment, we learned that Baily Point was still on the market, and it was ours if we wanted it. All of the anxiety melted away: whatever we saw that morning, we knew we could still have the little place with the seaview terrace that we liked very much. The first apartment was bigger than the last one we had seen in this building; it was a corner unit. I liked it - except for the out-dated furnishings. The street-level noise was too loud for Damon. The other agent showing us the property suggested that we go see the second apartment down in Salthill; she said it was vacated yesterday and not yet cleaned, but worth a look. We rush over to Salthill to Ocean Towers, condos/apartments just north of Baily Point. This was a second-floor corner unit, and it had been recently renovated. We walked in and were hooked - a covered balcony with seaviews, modern kitchen with all appliances, beautiful living room, separate dining area near kitchen, two baths (one with a tub), and two bedrooms - one with a seaview. We looked at each other, then at the agents and said, "We'll take it." Everything always seems to work out for the best. We actually prefer this apartment over the one we were turned down on, and it's a block from a gym that overlooks the sea. It's a little farther of a drive for Damon, but his commute will probably be around 20 minutes - far less than the one hour he drove each way back home. He just has to leave for work around 7:45 a.m. to avoid traffic.
We are hoping to move in on Monday, the day Damon's starts work at Medtronic. Alas, Lisa will be in charge of the move, sans car.
The housing market here is hot, unlike Northern California. Our leasing/relocation agent, Rosarie, arrived around 10 a.m. on Tuesday, September 11, to meet us at the hotel. She said she was thrilled to have four different apartments to show us, one of which was a townhouse. All had two bedrooms, and two bathrooms. (That news made our day already.) We had a cup of tea (we are adjusting well to their traditions) and then hopped into Rosarie's car (I almost got in on the wrong side, as the driver sits on the right here). Our first stop was in Salthill, about 1 mile south of Galway city centre. http://www.travelireland.org/galway/salthill/index.html
This apartment, located in the Baily Point complex, was remodeled in a contemporary, sleek modern style - and had a large terrace with sea views of Galway Bay. Stunning! And Ireland's longest promenade along the seashore was right across the street. Plus there is a little shopping area down the street in Salthill with pubs, wine shops, restaurants, internet cafes, grocery stores, etc. The apartment was a little small, but very nice. It totally exceeded our expectations. We were expecting tiny apartments in charming, ancient buildings with no dishwasher and old decor. We were thrilled.
Next we visited the townhouse; it was in a gated area on Taylor's Hill, a very affluent neighborhood, we were told. It was three stories with a spacious kitchen combined with separate living room and dining room on the first floor, two bedrooms, two baths on the second, and a loft upstairs for an office. The interior design was impressive. Very modern, contemporary and high-end. From a design standpoint, it was nicer than any place either of us had ever lived. But there were no seaviews or a terrace - it was less than a 10-minute walk down to the water, though. And a really nice gym was around the corner, just 3 minutes' walk away.
We then visited two apartments near city centre. The first was on the docks, right off the water - but it needed serious updating - kitchen, carpets, furniture, etc. We passed. The next was nicely decorated, fully remodeled with sleek modern furnishings and kitchen appliances - but no dishwasher. And it overlooked an oil refinery. We decided the city centre would be a little too noisy. And there were three showings of this sleek apartment scheduled that day, so it would be gone within hours. We let it go.
Over lunch on Quay Street (pronounced "key," the made hub of shopping, dining, activities here in Galway), we decided to make an offer on the townhouse. It was so nice and spacious, and only a short walk to the water. And it was a little closer to city centre. (We are keeping in mind that we only have one car, and I'll have to walk, bike or bus everywhere when Damon's at work.) We soon learned that there were several people interested in the Taylor's Hill townhouse, and the agent and owners are very fussy regarding to whom they rent. Their agent told our agent she would be meeting with the owners on Wednesday to select the tenant. We grew anxious (me more so than Damon, of course). Could we have been nicer during the showing? Should we have dressed more professionally? Should we send over a bottle of wine and a thank you note? (That's Lisa thinking....) Should we wait it out? Will we lose Baily Point if we do? It was already past 5 p.m., so all we could do was hurry up and wait.
The next morning, we decided to go walking around town. Finally, at 12 p.m. on Wednesday, we learned that we didn't get Taylor's Hill. Could this be because we are Americans? Our first sign of discrimination, thanks to our lovely foreign policy and a president that is detested worldwide? Who knows. Our agent was never able to find out why. She said she'd start searching the databases again to see if anything new turned up. She said she called Baily Point to make the offer, but had not heard back from the agent. With no calls as of Wednesday evening, we realized that we'd probably lost Baily Point too, and now there was nothing available. Would we be living at the Radisson for the next few months? We had been enjoying the outdoor jacuzzi, work-out room and sauna, but eating out every meal was getting old. It's a strange feeling to know that you are now a resident here, but you still feel like you're on vacation - or will this change when we move into an apartment and start a normal routine? Maybe I will always feel this way, as I still can't believe we are living in Europe.
On Thursday morning, our agent called and said she had two more apartments - neither had been listed yet - which we could see before the feeding-frenzy of potential renters occurred. The first was in the same building overlooking the oil refinery (Damon was not enthused, but it did have an dishwasher). The second was near Baily Point. On the way to the first apartment, we learned that Baily Point was still on the market, and it was ours if we wanted it. All of the anxiety melted away: whatever we saw that morning, we knew we could still have the little place with the seaview terrace that we liked very much. The first apartment was bigger than the last one we had seen in this building; it was a corner unit. I liked it - except for the out-dated furnishings. The street-level noise was too loud for Damon. The other agent showing us the property suggested that we go see the second apartment down in Salthill; she said it was vacated yesterday and not yet cleaned, but worth a look. We rush over to Salthill to Ocean Towers, condos/apartments just north of Baily Point. This was a second-floor corner unit, and it had been recently renovated. We walked in and were hooked - a covered balcony with seaviews, modern kitchen with all appliances, beautiful living room, separate dining area near kitchen, two baths (one with a tub), and two bedrooms - one with a seaview. We looked at each other, then at the agents and said, "We'll take it." Everything always seems to work out for the best. We actually prefer this apartment over the one we were turned down on, and it's a block from a gym that overlooks the sea. It's a little farther of a drive for Damon, but his commute will probably be around 20 minutes - far less than the one hour he drove each way back home. He just has to leave for work around 7:45 a.m. to avoid traffic.
We are hoping to move in on Monday, the day Damon's starts work at Medtronic. Alas, Lisa will be in charge of the move, sans car.
Labels:
Apartment,
Galway,
Ireland,
Quay Street,
Salthill,
Taylor's Hill
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Our arrival into Galway, Ireland
Greetings from the Emerald Isle! We look forward to sharing all of our experiences of living and traveling abroad with you while Damon is on a one-year assignment with his company, Medtronic, here in Galway, Ireland.
After barely making our connecting flight at Chicago O'Hare - they had to re-open the computer terminal to check us in 45 minutes before departure - we settled into a comfortable seven-hour flight aboard Aer Lingus, the main airline of Ireland, replete with a bright, green clover on the tail wing. Once we arrived (the morning of Monday, September 10) into Shannon International Airport, about 1 hour, 45 minutes south of our new home town of Galway, the friendly customs agent took our passports and Damon's work VISA for about 30 minutes, so she could get us set up in the system. Before suggesting that we go collect our bags while waiting for her to finish this computer work, she asked, "What part of California are you from?" I told her that we lived near Napa Valley, and she said with a thick Irish accent, "Well, heavens, my dear. Why would you want to spend one year here on this rainy island?" Then she proceeded to say that it wasn't that bad, and that Galway was a beautiful city.
Damon and I stood at the baggage carousel and made bets on whether or not our luggage made the mere 45-minute connection. We both thought it was unlikely we'd have a toothbrush or our contact lenses cases that night. Shockingly, ever single bag made it - and all in good order. Because Damon is always thinking ahead, he gave fair warning to the car service on our baggage quantity - eight plus carry-ons. We learned that they would be sending a mini-van in lieu of a "saloon car" then. (One of the many new terms we are learning; it's what they call a sedan.) We were greeted by a driver that Medtronic had arranged, a nice fellow who recently returned from his first vacation to the United States - they went to Disneyland in Southern California, as well as San Diego and Las Vegas. We chatted about San Diego and Las Vegas most of the drive up to Galway (two of our favorite cities). His mini-van was almost too big. :)
My first observations while driving through the countryside of Shannon and Ennis leading up to Galway:
- There were more bushes amidst the green pastures than I expected
- The cows are more stout/stocky than ours (big hooves, thick legs)
- There are sheep everywhere (the stories we read are true)
- Most country land is divided by squatty, old, stacked-stone walls (very charming)
- Cars are bigger here than in Italy (still a little smaller than most cars we drive in the U.S. - you rarely see SUVs - but we still haven't seen a SmartCar here; just Toyota Yarises)
- There will always be heavy traffic if you go anywhere between 8 a.m. to 9 a.m. (when school and work days begin)
- School kids have it great here (they start at 9 a.m., out at 2:15 p.m.)
- The architecture reminds me a lot of the countryside just outside of London (although the Irish probably won't like to hear me say that) - stucco houses, tudor-style rooflines, bright-colored doors, very few garages
- Driving on the left-hand side of the road seems weird, and the fact that the driver of the car is in the passenger side is even stranger (I guess we'll get used to it)
We'll be staying at the Radisson Hotel in Galway until we find an aparment. Apartment-hunting begins tomorrow. http://www.radissonhotelgalway.com/
After barely making our connecting flight at Chicago O'Hare - they had to re-open the computer terminal to check us in 45 minutes before departure - we settled into a comfortable seven-hour flight aboard Aer Lingus, the main airline of Ireland, replete with a bright, green clover on the tail wing. Once we arrived (the morning of Monday, September 10) into Shannon International Airport, about 1 hour, 45 minutes south of our new home town of Galway, the friendly customs agent took our passports and Damon's work VISA for about 30 minutes, so she could get us set up in the system. Before suggesting that we go collect our bags while waiting for her to finish this computer work, she asked, "What part of California are you from?" I told her that we lived near Napa Valley, and she said with a thick Irish accent, "Well, heavens, my dear. Why would you want to spend one year here on this rainy island?" Then she proceeded to say that it wasn't that bad, and that Galway was a beautiful city.
Damon and I stood at the baggage carousel and made bets on whether or not our luggage made the mere 45-minute connection. We both thought it was unlikely we'd have a toothbrush or our contact lenses cases that night. Shockingly, ever single bag made it - and all in good order. Because Damon is always thinking ahead, he gave fair warning to the car service on our baggage quantity - eight plus carry-ons. We learned that they would be sending a mini-van in lieu of a "saloon car" then. (One of the many new terms we are learning; it's what they call a sedan.) We were greeted by a driver that Medtronic had arranged, a nice fellow who recently returned from his first vacation to the United States - they went to Disneyland in Southern California, as well as San Diego and Las Vegas. We chatted about San Diego and Las Vegas most of the drive up to Galway (two of our favorite cities). His mini-van was almost too big. :)
My first observations while driving through the countryside of Shannon and Ennis leading up to Galway:
- There were more bushes amidst the green pastures than I expected
- The cows are more stout/stocky than ours (big hooves, thick legs)
- There are sheep everywhere (the stories we read are true)
- Most country land is divided by squatty, old, stacked-stone walls (very charming)
- Cars are bigger here than in Italy (still a little smaller than most cars we drive in the U.S. - you rarely see SUVs - but we still haven't seen a SmartCar here; just Toyota Yarises)
- There will always be heavy traffic if you go anywhere between 8 a.m. to 9 a.m. (when school and work days begin)
- School kids have it great here (they start at 9 a.m., out at 2:15 p.m.)
- The architecture reminds me a lot of the countryside just outside of London (although the Irish probably won't like to hear me say that) - stucco houses, tudor-style rooflines, bright-colored doors, very few garages
- Driving on the left-hand side of the road seems weird, and the fact that the driver of the car is in the passenger side is even stranger (I guess we'll get used to it)
We'll be staying at the Radisson Hotel in Galway until we find an aparment. Apartment-hunting begins tomorrow. http://www.radissonhotelgalway.com/
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